Autorestomod and Manic Mechanic

The Window Freezes. The Window won’t go up or down. The window stutters when you roll it up. The Door Glass is not operational. You may need to do a Ford Power window replacement jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia www.npdlink.com Motor, Power Window: 23395-1 https://www.npdlink.com/product/motor-power-window/104237?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D23395-1%252B%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1985&year=1985 Switch Assy, Power Window LH: F-14529-2 https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-power-window-lh/128732?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dpower%252Bwindow%252Bswitch%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1985&year=1985

Brakes Won’t Bleed Soft Brake Pedal New Brakes Old Brakes. 5. Check your hard lines/soft lines/bleed screw. The dirty secret is that if you are using stainless brake lines, you may have to tighten the line up a little tighter than with Nicop or mild steel. The issue being that the flair on the stainless is less malleable than the flair on the other two. Air may be getting in but fluid may not be getting out. Also, old lines are old, and replacements are available, Check for damage to the lines. 4. New/existing parts issues. In the last three master cylinders we have gotten, one of them was not well rebuilt, we had air leaks on the seal and some substance that was not dissipating in the brake fluid. Always bench bleed a master cylinder thoroughly before installing it. Also, on Drum brakes, make sure that the rub pads are in good shape. If they are grooved, you could have problems under braking. 3. Air in the line/Improper bleeding procedure. Start at the back of the vehicle farthest away from the master for the rear system and the farthest from the master fro the front system. Air is the enemy of good braking. 2. wrong parts/mix and match parts. Make sure that all the parts on the car are correct for that car (or are the correct aftermarket parts). This could be an issue of a former power brake car having been converted to a non power system, or a non power car converted to power. Wrong push rod etc. 1. Leaks. Wheel cylinders, calipers, but especially master cylinders and bleeder screws. Cars without power brakes will see a rust trail down the firewall inside the car if the master cylinder seals are going bad. Harder to detect on cars with power brakes. But the fluid is very bad for the rubber diaphragm. And when we bleed the brakes, the bleeder screws if too loose will allow air into the system, or if they are not tight enough will draw air into the system. BONUS. Old or low brake fluid. Our truck has to have a leak in the system somewhere on the front. As we have lost fluid.

We diagnose the fuel leak on a friends 1967 Mustang hardtop Fuel leaks lead to bigger problems as we try and find out why our buddies 1967 hardtop Mustang is leaking fuel. What we find is a strange system set up with fuel filters in the wrong place, fuel lines run to places they shouldn't go. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

We install a late 1967 fuel line on an early ‘67 Mustang to improve performance. And to not set the car on fire…. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia Parts: Fuel Line, Tank To Pump: 9369-26AS https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-line-tank-to-pump/106962?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfuel%252Bline%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 Fuel Pump, Mechanical: 9350-6A https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-pump-mechanical/106916?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfuel%252Bsender%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 Sending Unit Assy, Fuel Tank: 9275-1DR https://www.npdlink.com/product/sending-unit-assy-fuel-tank/214211?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dsending%252Bunit%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968 Fuel Tank: 9002-1B https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-tank/106635?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfuel%252Btank%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1968&year=1968

We use OE Style Valve Cover Bolt Kit For 1986-93 5.0L Mustang: M-6582-8AK from National Parts Depot to neaten up the engine bay on our 1967 Mustang hardtop. We also use the Separator Set, Ignition Wire, Black: M-12297-9AK Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia Parts from National Parts Depot: Oe Style Valve Cover Bolt Kit For 1986-93 5.0L Mustang: M-6582-8AK https://www.npdlink.com/product/oe-style-valve-cover-bolt-kit-for-1986-93-50l-mustang/216391?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DM-6582-8AK%26top_parent%3D150000%26year%3D Separator Set, Ignition Wire, Black: M-12297-9AK https://www.npdlink.com/product/separator-set-ignition-wire-black-incl-2-2/206364?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DM-12297-9AK%26top_parent%3D150000%26year%3D

We start to detail the engine bay of our short term project 1967 Mustang hardtop. The engine bay in our ‘67 Mustang Coupe is not extremely dirty but could definitely use some cleaning in preparation for us making it a better looking place to look at. We take off the carburetor. We show how to use plastic to keep the rest of the car nice while we are cleaning. We discuss using a pressure washer. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

1. Wheels and Tires. Easy and (sometimes) Cheap, wheels and tires are a great way to change the look of your classic Muscle Car. Aluminum wheels will reduce unsprung weight and help performance, low profile tires will also help performance. 2. Polyurethane bushings. I only recommend the urethane when talking about aftermarket control arms and sway bars. 3. Crate Engines. Especially when we are talking about “the usual suspects” like the 350 small block Chevy and the Ford 302. I would not trade an LS for an Olds 455. 4. Rear gear ratio. If you are driving the car a lot, you might consider losing the 3.73 or 3.90 in favor of a 3.00. It will help keep the RPMs down when you are going to out of town shows. 5. Patina. Like it or hate it. It ain’t going anywhere and can offer bang for the buck when you have a cool enough classic. We talk about when too much is really too much and what constitutes just right. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com

Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia Engine Tuning with Vacuum Gauge 1. Check plugs. • Old need to be replaced. Fuel fouled can be cleaned and re-gaped. • Gap on a Electronic ignition (Duraspark, Davis HEI, Pertronix) should be around .35 to .45 (check with your distributor manufacturer). Points type ignition should have the plugs gaped to around .16 (check the service manual for correct gap). Run engine. Check for your miss. If it is gone you have found your miss. 2. Check float level. Generally examine carburetor. Look for unplugged vacuum ports, things like our accelerator pump where it is not even hooked up. • Carb basics. Idle screw. • Idle jets • accelerator pump • float setting on Holley Run engine. 3. Vacuum check with Carb cleaner around carburetor base and intake. • Older carbs check throttle shafts. You are looking for an increase in vacuum. 4. Timing. This can be tuned with a vacuum gauge or a timing light. This engine is an unknown, and is somewhat cobbled together. So we are going to use a vacuum gauge. Run engine. 5. Tune carburetor for best performance. Use vacuum gauge to make sure you have the engine running at it’s best.

We Start our Friends 1955 Chevrolet and get FIRE! We are the ‘55 Bel Air that has been sitting for years and get a ball of flame. BUT, at least it started. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

How To Put Up a Shop (the boring stuff Episode 526 Autorestomod Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia Before you do ANYTHING, know your local ordinances for county (if outside the city limits) or city. Find what zone you live in as well. This will help you to narrow down the rules that you will have to live by. You might get lucky and have a web site available for your area like Q Public that shows the zoning and lot lines to help you establish yourself. Link for our q public county map below. We are in an RC zoning district, the most restrictive zoning in Aiken County. We chose this area because fiber optic was a reality, not a “some day soon”. A) Find out how long permitting takes. In our area a permit typically takes 7 to 10 days. Areas with several metric tons of bureaucracy it will take longer—certain areas of So Cal are over a year for permits. B) Make sure there are no new rules on the horizon. Our zoning rules changed just after we got approval for the building. Had we been four days later with our permit we would have had to either get a variance (read more wait time) or reduce our structure size. C) Understand the rules. Some areas require that you have them out at each stage of construction; from lot clearing to concrete to final building. D) Know the rules. We have a friend who’s new business construction is in the city of Aiken. The city forced them to add a retention pond to the front of their business property—even though there was a retention pond on the property already. She fought and won to have the new pond filled in. E) The friendly (but squeaky) wheel get the grease. Our permitting went on for four weeks. Vacations and people out sick kept pushing us back. I was always courteous when going by to check on things. If they told me give it another week, I did. Dad always told people who wanted him to go faster with his work: If you don’t like this speed you really won’t like the other. Making them hate you won’t get your permit done faster. What should you put up? That is a personal and availability issue. Around here, the least expensive pole barn was January. The next lest was November or December. Our research showed that a pole barn was, at the time, more expensive than a metal building. That has since flattened out. THE BUILDING Which is better, metal or pole? Yes. Metal goes up quicker on concrete. Our construction time will be two days. That does not count insulation. • Most all metal buildings can be insulated the smaller buildings like ours will have less than wonderful insulation. I plan to insulate with R13 in the walls and R13 on the roof. Any time you put up a metal building or pole barn, you will have more ambient noise from the metal. We had been told that spray insulation will reduce noise from rain and such...it does not. The quietest building we have had was with a shingle roof. Stay even. When you are building, construction “likes” even numbers. SO if your square footage calculations sa you can max out at 37 feet, go 36, your waste pile will thank you. Big box on the wall (electrical). What ever you think you will need...add more. We are putting up a 30 space box. And we discussed with our electrican what we’d be running. Welders, compressors and tools. Both can be a pain to insulate and drywall depending on construction type. Tip on pole barns to make insulation/drywall easier: get the Girts horizontal between the truss supports. It will be more expensive, but make drywall easier to do. On the metal building side, our building has the walls with what appears to be an odd stud center. This will cause us to have to do some creative framing for the insulation and walls. We are also not going to float our drywall so that we can easily make changes to the electrical or what ever.

F150 F250 F350 Door Panel Tips And Tricks We Review the Dashtop Door Panel, Replacement Style for the F150, F250, F350 Ford Truck. We show how to remove the door panel. We show how to safely remove the original trim. You will also see how to set up a new door panel for original trim. jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia www.npdlink.com Door Panel, Replacement Style: F-DPR-80E-C https://www.npdlink.com/product/door-panel-replacement-style/137301?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DF-DPR-80E-C%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Switch Assy, Power Window LH: F-14529-2 https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-power-window-lh/128732?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DSwitch%252BAssy%25252C%252BPower%252BWindow%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Switch Assy, Power Window, RH: F-14529-1 https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-power-window-rh/128724?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DSwitch%252BAssy%25252C%252BPower%252BWindow%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Housing, Power Lock Switch, LH: F-14528-3A https://www.npdlink.com/product/housing-power-lock-switch-lh/185174?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DHousing%25252C%252BPower%252BLock%252BSwitch%25252C%252BRH%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Housing, Power Lock Switch, RH: F-14528-2A https://www.npdlink.com/product/housing-power-lock-switch-rh/185173?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DHousing%25252C%252BPower%252BLock%252BSwitch%25252C%252BRH%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Switch Assy, Power Lock: F-14529-3 https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-power-lock/128733?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DF-14529-3%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Pads, Arm Rest: F-24140-4C The C in the part number denotes Napa Red https://www.npdlink.com/product/pads-arm-rest-replace-your-cracked-or-bruised/131940?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Darm%252Brest%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1982&year=1982 Switch Assy, Power Window LH: F-14529-2 https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-assy-power-window-lh/128732?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dpower%252Bwindow%252Bswitch%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1985&year=1985

1. It will Energize you on your project. Seeing other cars finshed can inspire you to get moving on your car if you are stalled. 2. It is a great way to meet people that can possibly help you with things you are needing done. Or with parts that you are having a hard time finding. 3. If you are trying to get your car finished, a car show deadline will make you have a goal for completion. 4. Get custom business cards made so you can keep in touch with the other participants that you meet. 5.Finally it probably one of the coolest communities you can get involved with, especially on the local level. Many of the cars that attend are drivers and the owners are often willing to help in many ways more than just information. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

Make your Molded Headliner stay put. We show how to make a molded headliner stay up in your car. While we are working on a Ford F250, this applies to any car with a foam backed fabric covered headliner that is applied to a board and put up in a car. Headliner, Red, Cloth Covered: F-51944-26B https://www.npdlink.com/product/headliner-red-cloth-covered/208309?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dheadliner%26top_parent%3D60000%26year%3D1985&year=1985

VIN information can be the difference between a run of the mill Mustang and a stock powerhouse. The same can be said for the Challenger or Charger from Dodge. But what are you buying? While we won’t go into the complete break down of what everything means on a Vehicle Identification Number from Chevrolet Chrysler Ford, we will talk VINS and Body Tags. Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia https://www.martiauto.com/ https://nastyz28.com/portal/ https://www.allpar.com/threads/chrysler-vin-decoding-1926-2005-dodge-plymouth-desoto-jeep.229947/

We had the brakes on our 2005 Suburban not want to bleed. The culprit? the new stainless steel lines. Since stainless is harder, it requires more force to get them to tighten up. We discuss correct tools and talk about the why of the lines not getting tight. Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

Jeff and his good friend Bill square off to debate (friendly) about restoration and preservation. Jeff tells tales from back in the day about National Parts Depot’s Rick Schmidt and his GT500KR. As well as a show where a 20,000 mile original unrestored GT500 was put in with restored cars. Bill and Jeff also talk guitars (mandolins actually) and discuss a shabby G2 Fender from 1908. Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia SIXRounds Studio https://www.youtube.com/ channel/UCNZ38bsqMJ7k9TLizFhNyNA

We show how to neaten up the wires in the engine bay of the 1967. We show a cheap and effective way to make the plug wires look better using zip ties. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! Strap Kit, Wire Retainer: 376914-SK https://www.npdlink.com/product/strap... jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemediaHow To Cheap and Effective Plug Wire Loom We show how to neaten up the wires in the engine bay of the 1967. We show a cheap and effective way to make the plug wires look better using zip ties. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! Strap Kit, Wire Retainer: 376914-SK https://www.npdlink.com/product/strap... jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

This week we show you how to put the Ford Small Block 302 distributor in the correct “forward” position. We do this the easy way: we simply clock the spark plug wires one position back from the current one and then move the distributor accordingly. Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

Shop Construction From Lot Clearing to Building Episode 527 Autorestomod We show the construction of our studio/shop from lot clearing to the building finally being finished. Link to Last weeks video: Thanks for watching and please encourage others to subscribe. Jford@autorestomod.com www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

There are many EFI kits out there. And if you want us to review kits, leave a comment in the section below. For arguments sake we will be using the Holley Sniper Holley Sniper 550-516 Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Fuel Injection Systems $1,200.00 Basic system without pump and enough fuel line to get back to the pump (more on that in a second. Pump If you are “mainstreaming” in your car choices (Mustang, Camaro, Chevelle) There are tanks specificly set up for EFI. The pump flows at 255 liters per hour or roughly 67 gallons per hour. Tank specific pump (Mustang and Cougar Camaro Chevelle) runs $619.00 This is tricky. To return or not to return fuel? While Holley states that their 650 HP system does not require a return, we’ve read several post on the Holley site that says it does require a return line. Even the in tank pump shows a return line. We’d recommend upgrading to 3/8ths inch fuel feed line and a minimum of 5/15th line for the return. We’d also go Stainless...Yes you can bend nicop, go ahead, spend Right at $2000.00 for a system then cheap out on fuel line. NPD has stainless lines for the Mustang Camaro and Chevelle for $100.00 Plus having to flair fittings for connecting the barbs to the fuel hose. Or you can join the zip tie brigade and use the modern fuel hose and connectors provided in the Mater Kit to get the job done. Weld in the bungs anywhere from a couple slices of pizza and a cold bear to a couple hundred bucks We’ll call it $100 to be safe. Plus $150 in miscellaneous (pizza, beer and piddly parts like filters) All in on a Holley EFI Right at $2,200.00 Carburetor. Biggest issue used to be sizing your carburetor. There are calculators for that now. Though my experience has been to go about 100 cfm over the calculators recommendation. Also, different cam and heads will effect that. So, we’re specing a 650 cfm carb. The two most popular for street are the Edelbrock and the Holley. Holley 0-80783C 650 CFM Classic Holley Carburetor is on backoreder as of filming so we moved over to the 670 CFM Avenger. Cost for the Holley 670 Avenger will be around $520.00 Cost for the Edelbrock 650 1906 will be $420.00 If you are bare with no intake, you’ll spend between $200.00 and $400.00 for an intake for the car. This isn’t an intake comparison so we aren’t going to argue that. That same money can be added to the EFI Good quality fuel pump: $85.00 NPD has stainless lines for the Mustang Camaro and Chevelle for $100.00 Tuning Kit will be a really good idea. $125.00-$177.93 Plus $150 in miscellaneous (pizza, beer and piddly parts like filters) $1,000.00

Episode 135 What spot weld cutter do we use? While there are a couple of spot weld cutters, we like a plain drill bit, Slightly larger than the spot weld. But we do have certain places that a cutter like the one from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-63657.html) or the Spot Weld Drill (https://www.amazon.com/Astro-17262-3-Flutes-Carbide-Welding/dp/B009OXJ4QU/ref=sr_1_25?crid=ROV8WY5IPS8B&dchild=1&keywords=spot+weld+drill+bits+for+automobiles&qid=1634749249&sprefix=spot+weld+drill%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-25) from Astro tools works better. We discuss why we like each Hey, thanks for watching! We appreciate every view and each subscription! Tell folks we need them to subscribe! jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS TIPS! We use the 1967 Mustang as a test bed for judging an engines health. Keep it cold. Make sure to tell the owner beofre you roll out that yodon’t want it warmed up before you arrive. Never buy a car that the engine is warm to the touch when you get there. This usually means that they are trying to hide a rod knock or other issue. Check fluids first. Oil should be good, fresh oil could be the sign that they are hiding an issue. Check coolant. Any oil or milkiness indicates a head gasket issue. Or a cracked block. Cranking check. If it lopes on cranking it has a dead cylinder. Vacuum gauge. It can tell you a lot about the health of an engine. https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html#:~:text=From%20sea%20level%20to%202%2C000,1%2C000%20feet%20rise%20in%20elevation.&text=Engine%20is%20in%20Good%20Condition,next%20test%20to%20be%20sure. jford@autorestomod.com http://www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia